During installation, ensure the direction of the chain link clasp matches the chain's running direction. Both sides of the clasp must fully engage with the chain links to prevent loosening.
Use specialized tools (such as chain pliers) to firmly press the connecting pin into place. After installation, lightly tap the clasp; a crisp "clink" sound indicates proper engagement.
Avoid using low-quality or non-genuine connectors to prevent sudden breakage during riding, which could cause danger.
Park the motorcycle on level ground, engage the parking brake, and lift the rear wheel to suspend the chain.
Measure the gap between the chain and sprocket using a ruler. The standard value is typically 1–2 mm (for 110cc models).
Excessive slack may cause skipping or chain drop, while excessive tension increases engine load and accelerates sprocket and chain wear.
Check chain tension and wear every 500–1000 kilometers.
For sealed chains (e.g., 428HO type), internal grease lubrication typically eliminates frequent oiling. However, after riding in dusty conditions or rain, clean with specialized chain cleaner and reapply lubrication.
Non-sealed chains require lubrication every 200–300 kilometers to prevent dry grinding.
When replacing the chain, inspect both front and rear sprockets for tooth wear. If sprockets exhibit "hooked" teeth or severe wear, replace them simultaneously. Otherwise, the new chain will wear out faster.
Ensure the new chain length matches the original specification (e.g., 428×108L). Trim excess length if too long; chains that are too short cannot be installed.
Avoid prolonged high-speed acceleration to reduce impact loads on the chain.
Regularly clean mud and oil residue from the chain to maintain cleanliness.
Select reliable chain brands like RK or EK, which feature more durable oil seal designs and materials.
